2DOF WiperSim+Pololu problem(solved)+traction loss

[thecure]

Some changes on the rig and a new video after my full recovery:



Hope you didn't fall asleep during watching >1min slowmotions
Car change at 5:30mins.

great ...goob job....but i have a question.Where did you buy the sequential gearbox ?..tks

[jsmith2307]

Greetings,
I've just read the beginings of the thread! Foregive the question. I just blew 2 new Pololu 24V23 high power motor drivers at a cost of $62.00 each. This is geting old, I have to purchase one or two every other month, perhaps I should take another approach. Am I to understand, that I need only two JRK 12v 12 MOTOR CONTROLLER WITH FEEDBACK BOARDS connected to a couple of USB ports on my computer to make my motors work fore & aft? I am using two 24 volt motors stepped down to 12volts, can you foresee any problems with this setup? Heat, Amps etc.
jsmith2307

[yokoyoko]

Where did you buy the sequential gearbox ?

It is a BMW 5 Series part. Have a search on ebay: http://www.ebay.de/itm/BMW-Schaltung-E39-Schaltkulisse-Steptronic-7-515-428-/221133459203?pt=DE_Autoteile&hash=item337c94cf03
You can use every sequential gearbox of "real" cars that use simple microswitches. I removed everything not needed from the shifter - someday I want to build a case for this...
I use a Derek Speare 12 Bit Controller w/ integrated load cell amp for my pedals - this got 5 analog channels and 6 Buttons you can connect to. The shifter is simply connected like a button. Some people connect the shifter direct to their wheel and will need no extra controller - but you will loose 2 buttons on your wheel.

I just blew 2 new Pololu 24V23 high power motor drivers

this hurts - I know this on my own.

This is geting old, I have to purchase one or two every other month

sounds not good - ? this is def. not normal

Am I to understand, that I need only two JRK 12v 12 MOTOR CONTROLLER WITH FEEDBACK BOARDS connected to a couple of USB ports on my computer to make my motors work fore & aft?

Sorry I have some problems in translating I think. What do you exact mean with motors fore aft?
I use 3 Jrk12v12. Each is connected:
- via USB to the Pc that runs the Converter
- to a 12V car battery
- to a wiper motor (12V)
- to a potentiometer (single turn 10kohm in my example)
I have the Jrks in a small case with a fan attached. Also I mounted a heat sink to the driver.

In the beginning of my build I killed a Jrk with an unisolated wiper motor - if you don't do THIS to them they are pretty "strong".
Can you post my a link of your current sim?

[motiondave]

Greetings,
I've just read the beginings of the thread! Foregive the question. I just blew 2 new Pololu 24V23 high power motor drivers at a cost of $62.00 each. This is geting old, I have to purchase one or two every other month, perhaps I should take another approach. Am I to understand, that I need only two JRK 12v 12 MOTOR CONTROLLER WITH FEEDBACK BOARDS connected to a couple of USB ports on my computer to make my motors work fore & aft? I am using two 24 volt motors stepped down to 12volts, can you foresee any problems with this setup? Heat, Amps etc.
jsmith2307

I jrk per one motor.
Each JRk has one usb cable and 7 wires, 2 power in , 2 power to motor, 3 feedback pot.
Put heatsinks on the big chips with fans to cool them.
They will run 12=14v at 30 amps continuous all day.

[NeoTokyoNori]

I were able to find the most parts @ a acceptable priece.
- 20€ for the wheelbearing (used)
- ~80€ for the frame
- 35€ "bearing" in the back (price depending on your and sim's wheight)
- 50€ "Plate in back" (these plastic guys are crazy ) - searching for a alternative
- 80€ Jrk or whatever
- 5€ Wiper (used) or ...
- 10€ connecting rod
- power supply (car batterie so far)

The Pa6G plastic plate I use is oversized in thickness definitely (10mm). I still believe this plastic plate is a good idea to "save" the bearings (good pairing materials) but 2mm thickness with a fitting underground should be enough and much cheaper.
I now move the traction loss in a range of ~20cm to each side (due to the higher mass with the monitors). I can move much more by adjusting the lever arm to the front bearing but I still use the wiper motors in the sim and would recommend something stronger at the same speed level for doing larger ranges (the zyt90 motor with 50:1 reduction gearbox would be a good example).

Hello yokoyoko,
I like your work on the traction loss rig!

I am trying to build a similar setup for my motion rig too.
I like to drive rally style to it is very important !

Can you please show how you are using the motor for the sideways movement?
I see that you have a swivel plate at the front, but none of your pictures shows the traction loss motor.

I would also like to see the bearings that fit into the frame slots..

Thanks !

[yokoyoko]

Hello yokoyoko,
I like your work on the traction loss rig!

Thank you very much!

I am trying to build a similar setup for my motion rig too.

I can only encourage you pursue this direction. I think you will not regret it. For sure I will help you if you need some infos on how to build it

Can you please show how you are using the motor for the sideways movement?
I see that you have a swivel plate at the front, but none of your pictures shows the traction loss motor.

I updated my gallery with some pictures. I think this will answer your question

At the moment the motor is 85cm away to the front bearing. The distance to the rear bearings is 70cm. The leverarm of the motor is "standard" wiper with a length of 4,5cm from hole to hole.

I would also like to see the bearings that fit into the frame slots..

Or you can better look at them in the drawing:

680_1.JPG (28.81 KiB) Viewed 7825 times

I filled them with motorbike chainspray to smooth the rolls inside.

What I like best is if the front bearing is at the same "axis" as the pedals. Like here:


Like said before this plate don't need to be this massive:


Here is a complete view of the sim:


Feel free to ask if I have missed an important info!!!

[prodigy]

A lot of trophies, what have you done?

[NeoTokyoNori]

I am really excited that you answered with your photos so quickly!!
My brain has been over-heating trying to figure out what is going on down there

I am going to study your photos closely, and will let you know how it goes !
Thanks so much.

[yokoyoko]

A lot of trophies, what have you done?

Hehe what you can see in the pics is just a small preview This are decorative dust catchers! I tried to sell some on ebay - but nobody wanted to buy them for more than 1€ I was very active in 1/10 scale and 1/5 scale R/C car sport. Mainly 1/10 electric touring cars (modified) but there up to the world- and european champignonchip. About 10 years ago, I set this hobby because it was much too time- (and money) consuming!!!

I am really excited that you answered with your photos so quickly!!

no problem. That's what I liked to do.

My brain has been over-heating trying to figure out what is going on down there

I am going to study your photos closely, and will let you know how it goes !

If you need any further details or a short video just ask... Perhaps this thread is interesting too for you:
http://x-sim.de/forum/viewtopic.php?f=12&t=684 the user "Hmaia" is building something similar to this at the moment.

[NeoTokyoNori]

Hi yokoyoko,

I am impressed by how much motion and speed you are getting from those little motors
Are you using 24volts?
Did you have any issues with fwd/reverse motor speed?
Did you use RC tuning skills?

About the traction loss method
I see now you are using the rod to push against the lower chasis.
I am thinking of using my wiper motor to make the upper chasis "swing" just like a wiper - they should be good at that right?
Do you think there is a big difference between the methods ?
my motor will be positioned halfway between the front pivot point and the seat pivot, like yours.

About the seat pivot
Are you using a rubber bushing instead of a uni-joint? if so what type?
i am thinking of using a suspension arm lower ball joint

Bearings
what type of bearing are they called? i have never seen that shape before.
i am thinking of putting raw steel ball bearings directly along the aluminum slots !
and just have a bolt that acts as the front pivot - no swivel plate

Rods
what are they made of, carbon fiber?
why do they look like rope?

Its quite fascinating to watch the rig working.
I would be happy to see more longer videos, showing your traction loss mechanism at work!