Prodigy's SimV2 - 2DOF - JRK's - ZYT90 DC Motors

[NeoTokyoNori]

I did some testing with both JRKs today, damaged one worked fine. Left the autodrive in RF2 for 15 minutes, JRKs got a bit hotter but nothing noticeable hot, just a slight feeling on the finger.

I don't know much about jrk's yet, but it looks like you are back on track!

[prodigy]

Exactly Bob, I've tested today the sim with full load, myself on it, and the JRKs were "choking" with driver errors. Looks like the PID I've used was too soft on the motors, they barely moved me even with duty cycle of 600. Also one of the motors would stuck, JRK will get errors and when I lift myself up from the sim it will get like normal again.

I don't think that those two motors are too weak to move me, with my previous sim with wipers and shoulder mount they moved me well. And those big motors are like double the stronger than wipers, right?

I've quickly tried Dave's default PID settings, 3/3, 0/3, 3/3 and there was a big improvement, much stronger motor movement and I've felt that those motors CAN move me, I just need to find proper PID. It is still something that I don't fully understand, even you guys explained it few times. What I've found out is that P number is making the motor like stronger or weaker (smoother?) and D number is correcting the jerkiness of movement.

Now I've learned that setting up PID without load on the sim is basically useless

I will make some pause over the weekend and start the testing again on Tuesday.

[motiondave]

I see the motors are under the rear of seat.
If you have simply changed from wipers to big motors, they should throw you around. Mind you, shoulder mount is always less load than under the seat.
You may need to try the motors more down near your knees or a bit further forward, that would give you more movement.
Motors at the rear are good underneath, but really for seat mover, not full frame.
Although, you may have more success than me.

To try to explain simple terms....PID
P - is usually the speed the motors start to move with and D - is the speed they stop at.
Leave I - 0/1
As you are running your motors at 600 and you tried the 3/3 0/1 3/3, if you are still having motor slowing issues, thats interesting....
Fiddle with PID, and sort profiles. ANd try reducing power down from 600 in increments of 40-50, you will still get fast speed, but the motors will draw a bit less current and may help stop some errors in jrk.
Try setting feedback deadzone from 0 up to 2-3, this allows the motors to overthrow a bit.
It has taken me nearly 2 years to sort PID , power and profiles for big worm gear motors.
Have fun!
Dave.

[NeoTokyoNori]

I daily solder here the smallest resistor you see there in the first minutes. But I have a stereo microscope to do that. Do use non ROHS conform tin-solder because it works much better.

Yes, it totally doable to replace that resistor... Its very easy with hot air rework tool. Nowadays I work on PCB's replacing tiny SMT resistors and capacitors with just hot air under a Mantis stereoscopic microscope...! Thanos

I have recently managed to do some re-work on my pcb's SMT.
Mantis stereoscopic microscope sounds like some serious hardware
I wish I could get one too, to help bring my dead G27 wheel back to life !

[prodigy]

I see the motors are under the rear of seat.
If you have simply changed from wipers to big motors, they should throw you around. Mind you, shoulder mount is always less load than under the seat.
You may need to try the motors more down near your knees or a bit further forward, that would give you more movement.
Motors at the rear are good underneath, but really for seat mover, not full frame.
Although, you may have more success than me.

That's the main problem right * I overlooked some topics and discussions where to put motors and I think that's the main flaw in my projects, my mistake. Few days ago I've tested it once more with different PID settings to see if they can move me and they can't. Without me on the sim it works fine, but as soon as I sit, it struggles, it chokes, errors on JRK, etc..

I was thinking, if the wipers could move me before with shoulder mount, then the big motors which are double the stronger could move me with underneath mount. But apparently that is not the case.

It's been like 5 months since I started to build this one and now I'm out of time and inspiration too. To make this work I would need to dismount a lot of things, cut the frame, reposition motors, weld everything again.. I will just put it aside for a while

[ferslash]

man it happened to me almost the same, a lot of design error... i lefted aside for a month... and now, i will do a new sim, out of the pizes of the old one... forget the frame etc, new beggining, consider that the expensive stuff can be removed from the old to the new... the frame... it is just metal,

best regards

keep the faith

fer

[vicpopo]

Hi Prodigy ,

I agree with fer ! Keep motivated!!

This is my first simulator with the same motors.
http://www.x-sim.de/forum/viewtopic.php?t=254

Lookint at your design , it seems to be not complicated and cheap to put your seat at the opposite as today.you have to change the ball joint position .

Come on !!

[motiondave]

Sorry, I read through my previous post about PID.
"I" should be the default 0/3.

[johnnyfive]

Hi.

What kind of metal welding did you use?

Cheers

[johnnyfive]

Hi Prodigy.

I'm using a similar setup as you and now I'm trying to reduce the noise coming from sim motion.
I'm almost sure that most noise is originated from small gaps in rod bearings (M10). Do you experience the same?

Cheers