Thanos AMC1.6 USB 2DOF Motion Controller

AMC, H-Bridge projects etc.
Please use the image gallery for your pictures, a short tutorial can be found here.
The first image in the first post will be shown in the project gallery.

Re: Thanos AMC1.6 USB Motion Controller

Postby tronicgr » Thu 12. Jul 2012, 21:23

Ok, here's a pic of the revision1 of the AMC1.6 board for double-side board. I post this to see the small change in the motor connector and how all other boards (optolink and SMhb2.2) fit together now.

155

156

153


The Optolink board isolates completely the AMC1.6 board from the motor drivers, even the grounds. The only thing that is passed is the waveform which I captured here for you to see:

raw distorted wave from 4N35.gif
raw distorted wave from 4N35.gif (5.7 KiB) Viewed 4522 times

raw distorted wave from 4N35 plus info.gif
raw distorted wave from 4N35 plus info.gif (7.42 KiB) Viewed 4522 times



And then the waveform is restored to its PWM shape by 74HC14:


fixed square wave by 74hc14.gif
fixed square wave by 74hc14.gif (5.8 KiB) Viewed 4522 times

fixed square wave by 74hc14 plus info.gif
fixed square wave by 74hc14 plus info.gif (7.43 KiB) Viewed 4522 times



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Re: Thanos AMC1.6 USB Motion Controller

Postby vicpopo » Thu 12. Jul 2012, 22:20

I'm very impressed !!
When I compare the amc board revisited in 2 layers I found one change with amc one layer! (execpt the fact that the new one has got 2 layers)
You linked the sck point wich used for programing and one another point from te ft232rl board (I didn't saw what is its functionality)
Do I do the same on my board ?
That's the jumper I talked about to you when you made your board ? Isn't it ?
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Re: Thanos AMC1.6 USB Motion Controller

Postby tronicgr » Thu 12. Jul 2012, 22:40

Its not really that much two layer but rearranging some lines on top layer allow me to make the board a little smaller.

I rearranged the SCK point to be easier to make the programming bridge connector. And no you don't need to have this connected all the time, just while you need to program new firmware to the microcontroller. Then some of these lines are used by DIP switches for settings.

Check your PM too.


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Re: Thanos AMC1.6 USB Motion Controller

Postby tronicgr » Thu 12. Jul 2012, 23:46

And here is a quick schematic for the Optolink1.0 board, without the 74HC08 part.




Did I told you yet that the isolated part is powered from the motor's battery? ;)

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Re: Thanos AMC1.6 USB Motion Controller

Postby vicpopo » Fri 13. Jul 2012, 20:53

tronicgr wrote:
Can you please measure the resistance of the power cables of the motor with a multimeter? Just measure how much Ohm's is the motors coil! If the resistance is too low, that's may be the reason you get overheated and burned mosfets.

Thanos

Hi Thanos,
I can't measure no resistance ! That means that the insulation is good.I tested a 10 kOhm multi turn pot and my multimeter measured around 10kOhm.I tried all scales and I measured anything between power cables and the housing.
The motors are for golf trolley applications , rpm 3600 rpm gear ratio 25 , 180 Watt.Reference is RP-Q-180
Regards
Gilles
Specifications for the motor and photo
Attachments
Spec motor
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Re: Thanos AMC1.6 USB Motion Controller

Postby vicpopo » Fri 13. Jul 2012, 23:41

Hi Thanos,
I tested following configuration : amc1.6 + dual h-bridge ( the only h-bridge not burned !!) with Xsim
Results:
1- no transistors burned (first little satisfaction ,yes :lol: )
2- the amc1.6 had never shuted down ! Yes for you for your job getting amc1.6 stable ! :lol:
3-No motor start when approaching my hand near the boards! :P
4-positionning to slow and the motor makes noise like jackhammer !! I posted the video on you tube ,link attached.

Does it come from the transistors (you advised me chnaging irlz44 to irf3205) ?
I posted below in the forum the motor descriptions , can the h- bridge ( the actually dual h-bridge (your hold version) drive the motor? Does the new one you designed works with this motor and with the same change for transistors(irf3205 instead irlz44)?
Last question : I don't know if what I'll explain in the further lignes is understing and normal.
I checked the voltage p1d1 ( the same for all directions signals) and I measured that the voltage is changing (from 5v to 0) when the slider (test plugin mode effect 21 with Xsim) come truth middle course from the slider ( middle axis ,value 127).
In my mind when I move the slider up and down ,the voltage is changing when you inverse the direction of the slider! For exemple, I tested changing the slider in a half axis way ( 0-127 or 127-255) but the p1d1 had the same voltage eventhought I moved it up and down in half axis way!Do I clear for my desciption and does it normal ?
Many thanks
Regards
The test in video :
I left the Kp setting 5 or 7 ,I didn't check wich axis y used ( X or Y)
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Re: Thanos AMC1.6 USB Motion Controller

Postby vicpopo » Sat 14. Jul 2012, 10:50

I left the Kp setting 5 or 7 ,I didn't check wich axis y used ( X or Y)

Hi Thanos,
I saw in your blog your Kp setting test with your new board from about 15 to 230.I didn't match changing the Kp values in the amc1.6 .I would like to test the motor response with the maximum kp setting value 30.
I could run the program until it asked me to enter new X Kp setting no problem.
But I didn't match with the keyboard to enter values !Before with the old firmware 1.1 I remember that I reached to change paramaters.I don't know if that come from the keyboard configuration or from the board.
I will try with an another computer to test and give the result.
What was sure ,the right key touched on the keyboard didn't match with appears in the hyperterminal.exe.And I have got delay between I touched the keyboard and the character displayed in hyperterminal.exe ( I did set the right parameters for com communication , I followed your descriptionyou made in the amc1.5 documentation)
Regards
Gilles
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Re: Thanos AMC1.6 USB Motion Controller

Postby tronicgr » Sat 14. Jul 2012, 17:31

vicpopo wrote:I can't measure no resistance ! That means that the insulation is good.I tested a 10 kOhm multi turn pot and my multimeter measured around 10kOhm.I tried all scales and I measured anything between power cables and the housing.
The motors are for golf trolley applications , rpm 3600 rpm gear ratio 25 , 180 Watt.Reference is RP-Q-180


No, I don't mean between the housing and the cables, but measure the resistance between the two cables!!! The motor's coil must have a resistance right? For example the resistance for my wiper motor is 3 Ohm.

Ok, doing some calculations on the specifications of your motor I got figured out that most likely your motor's resistance is 0.8 Ohm (or 15A at 12V), that is quite low and almost the same as the IRF3205 RON resistance! But with VGS at 5V you will get only 12A power at room temperature (25 degrees Celsius). Then because of the low resistance the temperature of the mosfets junction rises up to 175 degrees Celsius to cope with the 15A demand.

One work-around would be to use the IRLZ44 in your case. Their RON resistance is about 0.028 Ohm

Personally I never had problems like that with my h-bridges, I was always using IRFZ44 and IRF3205 with no too much overheating, and never burn any mosfets! Maybe your h-bridge bottom needs to be cleaned for solder residue and then cover it with plastic coating. That's what I always do on all my boards.

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Re: Thanos AMC1.6 USB Motion Controller

Postby tronicgr » Sat 14. Jul 2012, 17:34

vicpopo wrote:4-positionning to slow and the motor makes noise like jackhammer !! I posted the video on you tube ,link attached.



Hmm, sounds to me like the motor is not getting enough power to activate its coils and mis-turns. What power supply are you using? Car Battery? Computer PSU? I would recommend Car battery that is not limiting the current power.


I checked the voltage p1d1 ( the same for all directions signals) and I measured that the voltage is changing (from 5v to 0) when the slider (test plugin mode effect 21 with Xsim) come truth middle course from the slider ( middle axis ,value 127).
In my mind when I move the slider up and down ,the voltage is changing when you inverse the direction of the slider! For exemple, I tested changing the slider in a half axis way ( 0-127 or 127-255) but the p1d1 had the same voltage eventhought I moved it up and down in half axis way!Do I clear for my desciption and does it normal ?


I'll check it on my AMC1.6 here. I usually use only one direction pin with my Pololu High-Power Motor Driver 18v25. I'll check for the KP settings fuction too.
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Re: Thanos AMC1.6 USB Motion Controller

Postby vicpopo » Sat 14. Jul 2012, 18:41

tronicgr wrote:
vicpopo wrote:I can't measure no resistance ! That means that the insulation is good.I tested a 10 kOhm multi turn pot and my multimeter measured around 10kOhm.I tried all scales and I measured anything between power cables and the housing.
The motors are for golf trolley applications , rpm 3600 rpm gear ratio 25 , 180 Watt.Reference is RP-Q-180


No, I don't mean between the housing and the cables, but measure the resistance between the two cables!!! The motor's coil must have a resistance right? For example the resistance for my wiper motor is 3 Ohm.

Ok, doing some calculations on the specifications of your motor I got figured out that most likely your motor's resistance is 0.8 Ohm (or 15A at 12V), that is quite low and almost the same as the IRF3205 RON resistance! But with VGS at 5V you will get only 12A power at room temperature (25 degrees Celsius). Then because of the low resistance the temperature of the mosfets junction rises up to 175 degrees Celsius to cope with the 15A demand.

One work-around would be to use the IRLZ44 in your case. Their RON resistance is about 0.028 Ohm

Personally I never had problems like that with my h-bridges, I was always using IRFZ44 and IRF3205 with no too much overheating, and never burn any mosfets! Maybe your h-bridge bottom needs to be cleaned for solder residue and then cover it with plastic coating. That's what I always do on all my boards.

Thanos

Hi Thanos ,
For bigworm motor I measured 6 Ohm and I measured on a wiper motor 1 Ohm.
PSU : Chinese PSU 12V 30 A
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