DC motor_N-channel MOSFET's_H-bridge

[speedy]

Hi vicpopo :

Even I can't see capacitors soldering,but I assure you that's the right way ... they are vertical and wont move in the future eventually by your hand grabbing the board .

Try to shorten these legs a little bit so components gets closer to surface ... don't worry they will not touch the board .

And come on ... how could you did came up with two different mounting methods for the IC base and a rubber strip to hold them and can't get this easy on ?
here ...

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and don't drill the hole ... and solder the 7805 bridge metal back to this blank aria of copper [as a small heat sink ].

[vicpopo]

Hi Speedy,
Mounting the regulator as you shown the regulator back side will touch the tracks between the legs pads and the big tined area.
The back side is grounded so the tracks will be linked to the regulator ground ?
Sorry for asking but I would like first solder it like you say and I was not sure!
Why does the regulator touch the tined area ?for cooling ?Do I solder the regualtor case to the surface ? it's not possible to fix the regulator ?
Best regards

[speedy]

Hi Speedy,
Mounting the regulator as you shown the regulator back side will touch the tracks between the legs pads and the big tined area.
The back side is grounded so the tracks will be linked to the regulator ground ?
Sorry for asking but I would like first solder it like you say and I was not sure!
Best regards

Tell me you didn't cut the regulator legs yet ?

I know there are tracks passing under the regulator's legs ... they will not touch as distance between the regulator flat back level and the legs are enough to pass them securely ... long legs of the regulator provides a custom wider aria for other tracks to pass under it ...

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legs are in straight direction as picture above ... then they bend down just above there pads and comes flat to be soldered ... note the small passing tracks in this one

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oops it's a small one ... ok this one looks good

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I guess there should be a new post for DIY skills and equipments like the Great microscope you have or Thanos mini Oscilloscope ... to share these Ideas first ... of course minors are from my side


regards
speedy

[vicpopo]

Look at result and I'm waiting your comments.
Regards

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Regulator 1

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Regulator 2 it is back !!

[speedy]

I saw your post earlier.I didn't understand your point until I saw it ... So I had to do something first ... Sorry for late answer.
That's Exactly how I did it before ... I don't imagine how that passed me ... So I hurried back to one of friends that had bought this controller for his aluminum carving project ... and luckily I found it had no contact and working good ... the solder under the regulator's back just lifted it up a little bit so the track passed without touching the metal back ... wooofff .That's real luck.

As I can remember I tinned the tracks on the front board MOSFET side and the regulator aria before soldering my components ... as this made that lucky thickness under the regulator ... which I didn't discover it's advantage till now ... So I will regularly update instructions on the first post with every note or newly discovered missing points ...

So actually VICPOPO Sorry for annoying. But you can add more solder under the regulator to lift it's back level a 1mm up and then secure in place from it's sides with two soldering points .Or, use an isolation sheet behind it with some heat paste then solder the out lines in two or more point's to secure the sheet in place ...Note : update the green layer for this point with more coating cause you'll never reach it again .
that's really a lucky point and a very good observation from you ...clapping hands ... thanks .

regards
speedy

[speedy]

Hi vicpopo ...
I've done some updates to the original post ... find some time to give it a look ...and in your microscopic photo ... now after soldering you can remove the black base of the male header so it can rest into the female one without a loose or miss contact ...

see what zooming can make you see ... this is a soldering past containing a tin filings and a soldering grease ...

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regards
speedy

[vicpopo]

Hi Speedy,
I reworked the regulator as you said.
The problem is that I removed the ground pad when unsoldering the regulator.
It happened once to me ,the nightmare is back!!!
But that was not difficult to rework.I soldered a thread and that seems to be OK.
We will see soon when testing the board. !
The picture attached from the regulator.

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Regulator

[speedy]

that looks good don't worry ... but needs to be more fixed not to move with vibrations ... Is this a shadow ? or the lines are touching ?

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Sorry, my friend I guess it is a messy board now but don't worry it has no feelings ...
My fault I admit it ... further on pls. give it a major cleaning and copper coating layer and it will be good as new .

When comes to testing ... one more advice pls. ... hold the motor with both hands ... it will jump off the table like a rat ...


regards
speedy

[vicpopo]

Hi Speedy,
It's shadow I checked it.I know I have to maintain the motor!!
I will test it first with a wiper motor.
I will try to clean the board better , I 've got green hands
After I will protect the 3 IC bases and inputs pins for coating all this board side.
Next picture will come soon.
And after I will begin with the other side .
Best Regards

[vicpopo]

Hi Speedy ,
A few pictures from where I 'm in the project.It's look like a old plane star motor !!
Ready to win the battle vs the bigworm.
I just have one more difficulty, the cpu fan area is bigger than the copper disk with irf3205.
That means that I have to put a copper disk more between them.The diameter where the screws are for fixing the mofset is to little.
Best Regards

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Top area

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Star plane motor

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Cpu fan